Updated: Nov 24, 2020
Hey guys, this week I thought I'd give you a quick breakdown of how I painted the Xeno Wokers for Zombicide Invader. With so many minis in the box I needed to find a quick way of giving them a great presence on the table without spending forever painting. In the end I got the technique down to just 20 minutes per miniature.
I used the following paints and materials.
Citadel Grey Seer Spray
Citadel Contrast Gryph-charger Grey
Citadel Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh
Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red
Citadel Contrast Volupus Pink
Citadel Technical Lahmian Medium
Formula P3 Jack Bone
Formula P3 Menoth White Base
Formula P3 Menoth White Highlight
Formula P3 Frostbite
To begin with I primed all the models with Citadel Grey Seer spray.
Then I washed them all using the Gryph-charger Grey contrast paint and left to dry.
With the base colour and shadows set up it was time to start the highlights. I began by drybrushing the face with Jack Bone. I use a large drybrush and don't mind too much if i accidentally hit other areas, such as the shoulders and chest as this will add depth to the finished piece.
I then hit it again with a drybrush of Menoth White Base to pick out the raised areas.
Next I wanted to soften the recesses of the face by washing it with a mix of Jack Bone and Lahmian medium. This lightens the shadows and brings the highlights and the base closer together.
After that I flipped the model over and washed the central area of the back with Plaguebearer Flesh. This gives the model a nice mould/spawn look and helps break up the grey.
Next comes the longest part of the whole process. I needed to highlight all the muscles and spines using Frostbite. I picked out the various edges using a fine brush, ignoring the lower arms and the Plaguebearer Flesh areas on the back. Then usingFlesh Tearers Red, I just drew my brush across the claws for a very quick but reasonable effective finish.
Next using Volupus pink I picked out the tentacles and the arms. I hit the lower tentacles and hands with an undiluted mix, adding in Lahmian medium to soften the edges and add shading to the head and face. Using pure lahmian medium you can completely fade out the pink to give a really soft gradient on the arms and to correct any spill on areas like the chest and shoulders.
I allowed this coat to dry and then using Menoth White Highlight I picked out the details of the face and the model is finished and ready for basing.
For speed I production lined the process doing 10-15 models at a time. And approximately 14 hours later (or one long weekend but who's counting) and the jobs a good one.
Until next time, have fun painting.
The Duke hates painting production line style as he likes each mini to have it's own flair!